Xieng Khouang

Xieng Khouang is located in the Xieng Khouang Plateau in the north-east of Laos. Xieng Khouang in Laos language means ‘Horizontal city’. It is quite small province with the total area of 15,880 square kilometers and population of about 230,000 people. Mountains make up largely part of the total area, however, Xieng Khouang is still one of the main producing areas of Laos thanks to the fertile floodplain.

Xieng Khouang includes seven districts: Paek, Phaxay, Phoukoot, Kham, Nong Hét, Khoun and Mokmai.

It is set at an altitude of more than 1,000 meters above sea level and enjoys mild temperatures for most of the year, although winters can be surprisingly cold.

Xieng Khouang is home to the Plain of Jars the World Heritage site, the prehistoric stone megaliths which attract more than a hundred thousand of tourists to the province each year. The area is of significant archaeological importance on account also of the standing stones in nearby Huaphan province.

A total of 149 tourist sites were recorded in Xieng Khouang in 2019, and 42 tourist sites were official open, consisting of 12 natural sites, 18 cultural sites and 12 historical sites.

The Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars in the Xieng Khouang plain of Laos is one of the most enigmatic sights on Earth. The unusual scattering of thousands of megalithic jars across nearly one hundred sites deep in the mountains of northern Laos has fascinated archaeologists and scientists ever since their discovery in the 1930s.

The unusual site known as the Plain of Jars is dated to the Iron Age (500 BC to 500 AD) and is made up of at least 3,000 giant stone jars up to three meters (9.8 feet) tall. Most are made of sandstone but there are others carved out of much harder granite and limestone. One of the big mysteries about the site is how the massive jars, some weighing up to 10 metric tons, were dragged from the quarry to be placed in groupings 10 km (6.2 miles) away.

Because most of the jars have lip rims, it is presumed that all of them were originally covered with lids. And although a few stone lids have been recorded it is more likely that the main material used for the coverings was wood or rattan .

The jars appear to have been manufactured with a degree of knowledge of what materials and techniques were suitable. It is assumed that Plain of Jars’ people used iron chisels to manufacture them, although no conclusive evidence for this exists. Little is known of the people who carved the huge containers and the jars themselves give little clue as to their origins or purpose.

According to local legend, the jars were created by a race of giants , whose king needed somewhere to store his rice wine. The wine was to be consumed at a great feast to celebrate an illustrious military victory thousands of years ago.

Legend tells of an evil king, named Chao Angka, who oppressed his people so terribly that they appealed to a good king to the north, named Khun Jeuam, to liberate them. Khun Jeuam and his army came, and after waging a huge battle on the plain, defeated Chao Angka.

Opening hours: daily from 9 am until 5 pm.

Entrance feeis 30,000 Kip (US$ 1.30) per person

Muang Khoun: The Old Phuan Kingdom

The region’s ancient capital, Muang Khoun was ravaged in the 19th century by Chinese and Vietnamese invaders, then so heavily bombarded during the Second Indochina War that by 1975 it was almost completely abandoned.

However, a handful of aged monuments survived as ruins and the town slowly redeveloped, although it is very much a village in comparison to the new capital Phonsavan. It’s certainly not a must-see but might be worth the detour for those staying a few days in the region.

What is now referred to as Wat Phia Wat is the compound enclosing both the new temple and the remains of the old one. The new temple is a modern run-of-the-mill Lao temple, and not much of the old temple has stood the test of time, with the notable exception of a Buddha statue. Of the old temple building, only the brick foundation and some pillars remain standing.

This may not be the most beautiful Buddha statue in the country, and the bombing certainly did not help; the right cheek and lips are scarred, and one eye is missing. Yet, this statue mirrors the resilience that the local people demonstrated in the face of almost complete annihilation. Perhaps this is the reason why it is revered by worshippers, that can often be seen praying at the feet of the statue, burning incense and making offerings. A ceremonial sash drapes from the Buddha’s left shoulder to the opposing hip, and in its lap are several Buddha statuettes.

Mulberries Organic Silk Farm

Mulberries Organic Silk Farm, in the Phonsavan District of Xieng Khouang Province, is an establishment that aims to promote silk production as a way to generate income to families in surrounding areas while preserving the vanishing art of Laotian weaving. This non-profit company, certified both by Fairtrade and Lao Organic Department, grows their own chemical-free mulberry trees. Mulberry leaves are the staple diet of silk worms, which are raised here for four months, after which their silk cocoon is collected and reeled. The dyeing process that follows makes use of indigenous plants (such as indigo, jackfruit, and tamarind), which produce deep and rich colours. Once the thread is spun, it is given to village women who take them home to weave in their spare time. The silk farm then buys back the finished products to sell in their gift shops here and in Vientiane. Prior to that, the women attend workshops and learn how to make and use natural dyes, and the complex art of incorporating traditional designs into their creations. Visitors can view all the silk making process right here in the house. There are guided tours in English. If you are lucky enough, you may catch a glimpse of Miss Kommaly, who will tell you how she started this environmental-friendly cooperative 20 years ago. Her tireless work to empower local women and ethnic minority groups by raising their incomes through weaving earned her the 2005 nomination for the Nobel Peace Prize. Mulberries gift shop features beautiful plain silk scarves in a variety of rich colours, patterned throws and cushion covers and fabrics by the metre. Some patterns and home furnishing fabrics can be ordered. Mulberries Silk Farm in Xieng Khouang Province can be reached by plane from Vientiane. Lao Airlines operates three flights a week from Vientiane to Xieng Khouang. There is also a bus service from Vientiane that takes about 10 hours. If you can’t travel to Xieng Khouang, there is a Mulberries shop in Vientiane selling the same products.

Muang Sui 

Muang Sui was once a town famed for its Buddhist temples, historic architecture and beautiful countryside. However, it was subject to intense bombing raids during the Secret War and as a result, much of the landscape was ruined.

There are many ruins found throughout this Lao town, mainly of ancient temples, but also of houses and other historic buildings. The town is home to a beautiful lake known as Nong Tang, which is overlooked by tall limestone cliffs. This is a popular spot for picnics and water sports. The local caves can be found nearby and are a must-visit if you are in the area.

Other popular attractions include the surrounding countryside, which is complete with hiking trails and 15th century ruins; most notably the ruin of a stupa called That Banmang. Despite its small size and laid back nature, Muang Sui is actually a fascinating town to visit due to its interesting history and ancient sites.

XIENG KHOUANG CAVES

Tham Piu (Coffin Cave): Experience a wide range of emotions – sadness, curiosity, introspection, resignation, and hope – at Tham Piu (Coffin Cave). The sad hillside hole and its rocky rubble floor reminds visitors of that catastrophic day, when an American bomb found its target. Though accounts of the fateful day differ, one fact goes undisputed: the explosion on 24 November 1968, killed hundreds of innocent villagers.  

Before the ascent to Tam Piu, go to the visitor centre and contemplate the display of photographs and history behind the bombings. You’ll read about the single shell that hit the core of the cave, and claimed a reported 374 lives of locals seeking shelter from the daily bombings. Pictures of victims horrify, while the snapshot of Officer Thidbounkon, who allegedly downed an F4 fighter jet with three rifle shots, raises an eyebrow.

Start your climb to the cave on the upper staircase, which passes a golden Buddha, grave markers, and bomb craters set in an eerie park-like scene. Practical yet peculiar, a series of narrow concrete channels crisscross the walkway. They feed mountain water to diversion dams rerouting the flow to irrigate nearby village fields. Inside Coffin Cave, locals light incense to pay tribute to those who died.

Outside the cave, the statue of a man, straining to hold his anger, carries the body of a lifeless child. This solemn monument to those who died, calls for an “Annual Day of Remembrance” for the 1968 massacre. The stairs head downhill to a stream you can cross on a short but challenging bamboo bridge, or play it safe and simply wade through the creek. Refreshment stands and small restaurants offer a respite for reflection on the other side.  

To reach Tham Piu, take Lao Route 5 north from Kham Town for 3 km to Ban Bouam, turn left (west), and follow the road to the end and the cave’s parking lot.

Tham Xang: According to locals, during the Indochina War, no villages existed where Ban Ta now stands. Only Xang Tham (Cave for Care) in a cone-shaped peak and a great view of the karst landscape and valleys with chirping birds occupied this patch of Xieng Khouang.

Today, terraced rice fields and forested mountaintops stand atop the stairs leading 400 metres down to the cave entrance, which is maintained by the Hmong villagers in Ban Ta. You can still envision the well-lit cavern’s war-time setup, though it competes with the natural rock formations for attention.

When the war hit, Pathet Lao soldiers capitalized on the cave complex, changing its rocky chambers into a hospital, pharmaceutical warehouse, and arms depot. Peek inside with a Hmong guide and see evidence of its wartime role.

Besides its war history, the cave is worth visiting to see its gorgeous features. Inside, you can inspect dripstone forms called “speleothems”, caused by water flowing down the walls and over the cave floor. This creates flowstone or rim stone deposits around pools of water that are tiered like rice paddies. Tham Xang’s other familiar formations are its stalactites and stalagmite growths.

To visit Tham Xang, travel 15 km west of Kham Town on Lao Route 7 to Ban Ta. Turn right at the sign for the cave near the market, and follow the road for about 5 km to the parking area and stairs. Ban Ta is 35 km north of Phonsavanh.

The Secret Tunnel: Scale more than 1,000 steps up the Phu Kheng Jar Quarry Site to the hidden mountain passageway drilled through its rocky summit. As you’ll see, this tunnel played a strategic role for Lao revolutionary forces during the Indochina War.

The hardy climb begins after about a 30-minute drive from Phonsavanh, and passes a scattering of unfinished, flawed, and broken jars once destined for Jar Site 1. Alongside this prehistoric workshop, craters from the 1964-1973 American bombing campaign pock the forested terrain, though singing birds have replaced explosive blasts.

The stairs get steeper towards the end of the 1,200-metre ascent, but there are plenty of places to take a break and enjoy the view of the Paxay Plain and tiered rice paddies stepping down the foothills. The climb ends at a fork in the trail, and a left turn takes you on an easy 200metre path to the “Secret Tunnel”. You can enter the concealed cave, built into the mountain, after stepping down into a concrete bunker. 

The narrow 70-metre channel, chiselled through rock, with a ceiling around 1.6-metres high, winds past a few reinforced concrete ammo depots and sleeping quarters before exiting to a panorama of the mountains around Phou Koud District.

A visitor information centre and restaurant sit at the base of the mountain, and a row of refreshment stands serves soft drinks, beer, and snacks.

To visit the Secret Tunnel from Phonsavanh, travel west on Route 7 for about 13 km and turn left at the sign to the Phu Kheng Jar Quarry Site. From here, a compact dirt road winds 7 km to the site entrance, crossing a steel truss bridge next to a broken wooden one on the way.  

Tham Pha: Place Ban Nong Tang, home of Tham Pha, on your must-see list. Soaring limestone karsts surround the town on Route 7 and peaceful Nong Tang Lake. Nearby, you’ll find Tham Pha, a cave complex housing hundreds of Buddha images, and the ruins of ancient Buddhist temples.

Before the Indochina War, Muang Sui Town, now called Nong Tang, sat quietly near a lake. Beautiful Buddhist temples and shrines, some dating to the 15th century, stood alongside French buildings, but today, only the ruins of Vat Mixay, Vat Ban Ang, and Ban Mong Stupa remain.

These are well-worth a visit before embarking on short journey to the Tham Pha (Buddha Cave) underground maze. A large sitting Buddha, alleged to be 1,200 years old, greets visitors inside the entrance, before the amply-lit cave expands into a limestone labyrinth. Follow the web of rocky walkways that lead to chambers holding stashes of Buddha figurines still hiding from 19th-century Haw bandits.

To visit Tham Pha from Phonsavanh, follow Route 7 west for 48 km to Nong Tang Town and its lake. To reach the caves, pass the lake, turn left at the “Buddha Cave” sign, and follow a 3-km paved road.